North to Alaska

Explanatory Note:

The last post (Our Trip to Dayton) was not specifically about cancer, but some members of my family encouraged me to share the story of that experience.  My apologies to the readers who are not familiar with the people I named.  I planned that document to be for the family only, but they insisted that I post it.  To them, I say, ”Be careful what you ask for – you just might get it!”

They now have asked for the story of our little cruise to Alaska.  This took place in early July, so this post is not in chronological order.  My apologies.  So far, however, no one has posted a question about the relevance of the previous post, nor have there been any complaints.  Thus, until I am discouraged from pursuing this line of postings, you will get a few more.  I might even go back to what few journal entries I have made over the years and post them.  You have been given fair warning.

Again, apologies to readers unfamiliar with our family or names that will appear from time to time.  What follows is just another long boring travelogue.  Do not feel obligated to read further, or as the Latin phrase goes, “Caveat Lector.”

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North to Alaska

Background:

Our trip to Alaska (3 July 2013 to 11 July 2013) actually began a long time ago.  I am guessing at least as far back as 1955, when I learned that college kids could get hired to work in Alaska and make a lot of money for a few months’ work in the summer.  I never met the right people, so an Alaska experience for me did not happen at that time.  Probably it started even earlier than that, because one of the motivating factors for this trip was LaRue’s desire (and mine) to fulfill a wish of her father’s to visit Alaska.  Let me explain:  After Grandma died, we asked Grandpa Barrus where he would like to go sightseeing.  His desire was Alaska.  He added that he had always wanted to see Alaska, and he thought it would be fun to go there.  That was the only place he could think of that he really wanted to see as a tourist.

We had thought that would be a good idea, but there was always something that caused the idea of going to Alaska to be put on the back burner.  One of those things was our trip to Hawaii.  A cousin to my dad was in charge of the senior missionary couples for the Church, and he learned that Dad and his two brothers Lynn and Merrill with their wives were interested in serving as missionaries.  He arranged positions in the Church College of Hawaii for the lawyer and the microbiologist with their wives, and a place at the Polynesian Cultural Center for Dad and Mom.  They had a great time and it was a really good experience for all six of them.  Our son Howard’s mission to Japan was one of those that had been reduced from two years to 18 months, and when he got home, he felt he needed to go back to complete his mission, if only as an English teacher.  With his friend Joel Winter (who also served a shortened mission in Japan) he spent the summer of 1984 in Tokyo.  Their planned return in September was through Hawaii, where he made arrangements for the two of them to stay with his grandma and grandpa in their nice apartment, and they could get free rent.  He thought it would be great if another of their friends, Maynard Hammond, could join them on this little vacation.    Perhaps as an afterthought, he said that maybe we could also join them for a few days. 

The plans were started, and since Grandpa Barrus was alone and he and my folks got along so well, we invited him to come with us.  This trip is described elsewhere, but suffice it to say in this context that our Hawaii trip introduced a major delay for any plans that we may have had for Alaska.  So the Alaska thing never did happen for Grandpa Barrus, which disappointed both LaRue and myself and made us feel that we owed it to him to go there someday.

Several times we thought that “now” would be a good time to think about Alaska, but that is all we ever did: think about it.  But never for very long.  There were always things that took higher priority.  Even after the cancer hit my parotid gland, we did not spend much time thinking about a vacation to Alaska, because there would be time for that later.  It was only after a CAT scan discovered some 60 odd tumors in my lungs and I was given a maximum of six months to live that we began serious talks about some type of Alaska experience. 

I explored many options, and began to see who would like to go with us.  Of course the cost and what we would be doing entered in to the decision that most of the family made.  It turns out that when we settled on a seven-day cruise, Norman and Louise, Kim and Ryan, and KayLyn decided they wanted in on this experience. 

The process involved lots of e-mails and internet searches but eventually we came up with a plan to take the Coral Princess of the Princess Cruise lines and leave from Vancouver Canada on July 3.  The doctor and the nurses were very happy about that idea, and rescheduled our appointments to accommodate this opportunity for me to relax and enjoy myself.  They said it would do as much for me as the chemo I would not be taking during that time.  Following are some notes of the trip, kind of in diary form.

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Wednesday, July 3, 2013 - Embark, and start the experience

KayLyn came last night, to facilitate our traveling together to the airport with Ryan and Kim, who picked us up at about 8:00 for our international flight to Vancouver, B.C. at 11:10 am.  We drove to the North Temple Diamond parking lot, and were immediately picked up by a very courteous Amazon.  She handled my 44 pound bag more easily than I can.  The airport was the usual hassle of security clearance, etc.  There was one interesting rule that affected LaRue and myself - if you are over 75 you don't have to take off your shoes.  I guess they figure we could never get them back on.  We had a lot of time in the airport, and I wanted something special, so I asked one of the girls to get me a juice smoothy.  The chemo or the radiation has seriously affected my taster, and sweet things just do not taste the same anymore.  It was awful!  After valiantly trying to down said smoothy, I gave up and was going to throw it away, but Kim said she would try it.  To her, it was just as expected. 

The flight from Salt Lake to Vancouver, B.C. was more or less uneventful but it was also uncomfortable.  I had gotten up at about 3:30 and made a pen.  Well, almost made a pen; one piece was missing, but I did not discover that until I had turned the wood and polished it very nicely.  This was my attempt at a fountain pen, but the end cap was missing.  I discovered this only after everything was pressed into place.  Except for that minor detail, it turned out well (pun intended).  The discomfort came because I did not get a long enough nap after making the pen.  Sleep is useful;  it keeps the “nervous leg syndrome” away.  So for most of the flight I fought the urge to scream, and rip off my compression socks and just start rubbing my bare swollen feet.  Instead, I just endured as best I could and napped a little.  But eventually it was over and we were being escorted to the bus for the 45-minute ride to the ship.    The cruise line had things pretty well organized, and even though we had times when we had to wait for something, we had a minimum of hassle during the process.  We found our cabin with no difficulty and then went looking for Norman and Louise. We got a call from Norman and decided to meet them at one of the many locations where one can get food.  After all, we had not yet had lunch and it was getting close to suppertime.

There are many other activities on the ship as well, and the kids have had a good time doing a variety of things.  For my part, I have enjoyed being in the cabin with my feet up on a table.  I spent some time on the balcony also, but the wind is a bit cool, so I enjoy the sea through the glass patio door. 

Thursday, July 4, 2013 – At Sea

Independence Day.  For some, a day of hot dogs, parades and fireworks.  Maybe there were hot dogs on the ship, but no parade and no fireworks.  The chef did have a cake made with a flag and other symbols of our once great nation, and several of the passengers had shirts of red, white, and blue, etc.  But mostly it was an ordinary day at sea.  I later discovered why the lack of enthusiasm on the part of the Cruise line: it is a British company.

Mom was very tired, and slept a long time.  I went out exploring the ship with the kids, who took real good care of me.  They had already been all over the ship, and knew where most of the nooks and crannies are.  They really have been good.  If I want anything, they will make me sit down and they will get whatever I want without a question . . . unless it is something that I have already indicated is bad.  Example:  Most of the food on the ship has already been paid for; but specialty drinks, like a frosty or a mixed juice drink, you have to order and pay extra money.  I was feeling like I wanted a juice smoothie (hoping for something better than in the airport), so we ordered one and the girls brought it to me.   Again, it tasted awful!  I could not drink it.  To anyone else it tasted good, but there still is enough chemo in me that my taster is off – sweet things are the worst.  So KayLyn (or Kim – can’t remember which) had to finish it for me.  But they said:  “No more of that kind of stuff for you!”  And later, in a different place, I asked for the same thing (not remembering the previous experience), but they reminded me of that and refused to make the order for me.

The sea so far has been very calm, and the ride very smooth.  It is quite relaxing to be here.

Friday, July 5, 2013 – Ketchikan, Alaska.

We ate a quick breakfast while the ship was docking, then hurried out to find the bus that would take us to the float plane experience.  Kim, Ryan, and Norman had agreed to go with me on this expedition, and had even agreed to fly in the plane of my choice: a DeHavilland Beaver.  So I asked the ticket taker if she could guarantee that we would get that type of aircraft.  She could not say; it was up to the boss, not her.  So when we got off the bus and after she had a few moments to put stuff away, I pressed her again.  Again, she could not say.  There were several other people hanging around, and soon she came out and started calling the names of the participants in the Misty Fjord Seaplane Expedition.  In the first group there were ten, and off they went to get into an Otter.  Then another group of ten to another Otter.  There was a bunch left, and one more Otter.  There were also several Beavers out looking like they were ready for something, and at least four had already left, without passengers.

 I learned later that the company has contracts to deliver the mail to many remote locations in that part of Alaska, and also several folks out there in the bush depend on floatplanes for transportation out of their very remote, hard-to-get-to communities.  Ten more names were called and one more Otter was filled up.  That left the four of us standing there with only two others.  Six is what the company says is the maximum for a Beaver.   The pilot (kind of a crusty old guy – just the kind you would expect for such an adventure in an old bush-plane) came out and we learned that we were flying in a 1952 Beaver! 

This was good; but what was even better was that Norman asked if a passenger would be allowed to sit in the right front seat.  He said, “Yes, the first one that asks.”  At that point my hand shot up, and both Norman and Ryan pointed at me.  So that is how one of my fondest flying wishes was fulfilled.  

During the climb-out, we saw a lot of fishing boats: Ketchikan is said to be the salmon capitol of Alaska. 

We even saw the infamous “Road to Nowhere” that was to be the connecting point for the “Bridge to Nowhere.” 

The flight over the Misty Fjord territory was spectacular.  Scenery I did not know even existed was there for the looking: sheer cliffs, beautiful forests, remote, hidden lakes, remarkable rivers and waterfalls. 

It was all there. Near the end of the ride, we landed on one of the remote lakes and got out on the pontoons for a few minutes.  The experience was remarkable.  I just might want to do something like that again.

When we got back to the ship we decided that there was time to go out to the Totem Bight State Park, but didn’t know how to get there.  We spoke to one taxi driver who wanted $40 one way.  He got a call in the middle of our conversation and took off.  The next taxi driver was a lady who was from the Tlingit tribe.  She was willing to take us out there, stay with us for an hour and return us to town for $70.  That was good, so Kim and Ryan went with me.  Norm wanted to stay in town and shop.  Kim was quite excited to be able to see the Totem poles, because she had a unit on them in her class.  She is quite knowledgeable on the subject and asked Irene, our driver, lots of questions.  The place we went had the tallest totems in Alaska and there were several of them that had been transported to this location.  It was quite interesting.  I even bought a bear totem for my collection.     

There were a lot of what looked like pale raspberries all over the place.  The berries were in full fruit, and were quite tempting.  Irene picked several and offered some to us.  She said they were Salmonberries, and had the most vitamin C of any fruit anywhere.  They were quite good, and we took a sample back for the others to taste.  They really were plentiful, so I did not feel bad about taking a few, especially when offered by a native of the tribe that should be occupying the land. 

When we got back to town, I was getting tired, so after making a quick purchase or two, I went back to the ship.  Ryan said he was also tired, and he came with me.  Kim knew where the others were, and she stayed to meet them.

  I think we left early and headed for Juneau.  Oh, yes.  One more thing:  the pilot said that this was the first really good day they had had so far this summer, and everyone else we spoke to offered the same information.  It was a beautiful day, to be sure.  There was no rain, and hardly any serious clouds.   And no mist over the Misty Fjord.  In pilot’s terms:  “ceiling and visibility unlimited.”

Saturday, July 7, 2013 – Juneau, Alaska

First thing after breakfast was the fishing experience.  The four of us were assigned to the Duchess, with captain Brandon Gee (pronounced Jee). Again, it was a very nice day:  not too much wind, no rain, more than a bit cloudy, but not totally overcast.  The water was smooth, and we did not go too far before Brandon and the crewman, Billy, were getting four lines ready.  They used a down-rigger that put the lines at a certain depth.  In a short time we caught something and it was my privilege to reel it in.  It was a salmon about 20 inches long. 

They called it a Chum Salmon. In short order, we caught three more and we were all happy. 

We continued to fish that spot and caught a few more, and then after we caught a small cod fish, things got slow.  So they pulled the lines in and we relocated to a spot very close to the dock.  Here we caught a few more chum, and by the end of the day (or fishing expedition) we had 11 fish, all of which were about the same size as, or bigger than that first one I landed.  There were at least three that got away just as we were trying to bring them into the boat, and that was a disappointment.  They all looked like they must have been King Salmon . . . and really big. . . maybe.  Isn’t it always the big ones that get away?  And we caught two Pink Salmon, but they were quite small, so we released them.  Four of the ones we kept will be sent to Colorado, the rest to Utah.  Some will be smoked, the rest filleted and frozen.   The cod was not worth eating, but they kept it to feed their friend, a bald eagle that hangs around the dock.  When we got to the dock and cleaned everything up, Brandon threw the cod into a small part of the docking area and whistled to the eagle.  It came swooping out of its tree perch, and buzzed around, but did not take the cod.  Instead it flew back to its perch in the tree, where it could be admired by all who knew to look its way.  It was exciting to me to see a wild eagle that close.  A very successful day.   The rest of the party went up the cable car to the top of the nearby mountain, and then went whale watching.  I was tired, and was happy to stay on the ship and just rest.  They saw a whale, several sea lions, and tons of eagles.  I was happy for them.

Sunday, July 7, 2013 – Skagway, Alaska

We arrived in port in time to have breakfast and get to Church.  Norm learned that there is a shuttle bus that can take us to any address in this small town that we want.  The driver was a graduate of the University of Utah, but, although not a Mormon, said he is an avid BYU fan.  He thinks the BYU fans are a lot nicer than Ute fans.  His brother joined the Church some time ago and is now a Bishop, and our driver knows a lot about the branch in Skagway . . . but evidently has stayed aloof.  He took us right to the place, and on the way pointed out places that we should be sure to visit.  We got to Church early and became a late breakfast for hundreds of “no-see-ums,” little biting gnats, flies or whatever, that could easily drive a person crazy.    

So we hurried inside, even though we were at least 45 minutes early.  The chapel was interesting.  The only one I know of that has a basketball standard as part of the chapel furniture.  A young man was playing the piano, and continued to do so without looking up – right up until the time for the meeting to begin.  He played the hymns for the meeting, and did a great job.  There was no chorister.  I guess everyone knew when the introduction was over, because they all started singing at the right spot.  Most of the testimonies followed the example of the Branch President’s; they spoke of the heritage they had, their family, and their love of the gospel.  Many talked a little about why they were there; there was even one guy who was on the same cruise with us. 

After Church and a little visiting, we went back to the ship and changed clothes.  Then went to the train that took us over a winding, steep course that was cut out of the mountain, and in some places we could not see anything supporting the track;  it was straight down from the train for at least a thousand feet.  The top of the pass was in Canadian territory, but as long as we did not get out of the train, we did not need our passports.  The history of White Pass, and the neighboring Chilkoot Pass is very fascinating.  It has to do with the gold rush into the Yukon Territory, and the Dawson trail during the 1890s.  They built the railroad to get people into the Klondike area of Canada, but by the time the railroad was completed, the major reason for its existence was almost over.  However, it was soon used to haul all kinds of things into that area for the people who chose to stay and make their homes there.  Now it is pretty much used to take cruisers like us to see the area and get a sense of the struggles those early gold seekers had to endure.

Monday and Tuesday, July 8 and 9, 2013 – At Sea

Sea is still calm; no more stops on land until we get to Whittier, Alaska where we will disembark.  Several glaciers.  Lots of time to rest and loll around the ship.  The kids signed up for the Pop Choir, and they practiced several times and performed on Tuesday.  They did a good job, along with a few others.  I think there must have been maybe ten or twelve performers, five of which were our kids.  The leader of the group, one of the crew, had several other duties, and was not always “on task.”  Norman helped a lot by giving the group some stability and exercising “peer leadership.”  He also got involved with the Karaoke competition.  They had they final performance on Tuesday night, and of the six performers, he was the most lively, and seemed to have the most fun doing his number.  There was voting by the audience, and he won easily.

Wednesday, July 10, 2013 – All things must end

We are now on our flight home.  The logistics of getting us from one place to another worked very smoothly, and we had plenty of time at the airport.  Not enough time to go into Anchorage, but enough time to buy last minute souvenirs for whomever (Kim and Ryan still needed a couple of things, etc.).   Norman and Louise had an earlier flight, so we did not see them this morning.  So far the flight is good.  I got enough sleep that I will probably be OK.  Even though I have wrapped a blanket around my shoeless feet, they are still quite cold.  But if some of those gold rush folks could endure the bitter cold of the Arctic Winter, maybe I can take a couple of hours of cold, swollen feet.

The food on the ship was good, but by the time we got to the end of the tour, I was ready to try something else.   Even cooking my own stuff.  I am looking forward to what the salmon looks like and tastes like.  Everyone in Alaska calls the chum salmon that we caught “dog salmon”, because they feed that kind to the dogs.  Even our bus driver from Whittier to Anchorage said the same thing.  He said he liked the Coho salmon the best.  Called it “red salmon.”  I saw a guy in the airport pushing a cart with two big freezers on it.  I asked him if he had been fishing, and he got a big smile on his face and said that it was halibut.  130 pounds of it.  He appeared really happy with his experience.

I can say the same for ours.  All expectations I had of the trip were met, and most exceeded.  The kids were really good, and seemed to enjoy the experience; LaRue was happy; I got to ride in a DeHavilland Beaver; I caught not one but several fish; saw more than one bald eagle at rest and in flight.  Didn’t see any bears, so I guess I will have to come back here someday.  And I had plenty of time to relax, especially during the last two days at sea. One reason for that was that we were out of cell phone range, and we got no phone calls, no e-mail for two whole days.  When we got back in range, I had 28 gmail messages, 8 messages from the Church system, two text messages, several phone calls, two of which left voice mails.  I was busy for a while, and will continue to be tomorrow dealing with it all.  But the rest and relaxation from this experience was worth it.